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The heart of town
The seeds of Tel Aviv were planted in the area around Rothschild
Boulevard and Herzl Street. “Little Tel Aviv”, as this area is known,
is still, in many ways, the beating heart of the town.
Rothschild Boulevard is undeniably the most beautiful street in the
city. The buildings at the western end of the boulevard are mostly
Eclectic Style – the architectural trend that was prominent at the
turn of the 20th century. Further to the east, the buildings are
notably International Style (Bauhaus). The tree-shaded, busy lane is
engraved with the country’s history, as it was here, in the Hall of
Independence (former home of the city’s first mayor, Meir Dizengoff),
where the establishment of the State of Israel was famously
proclaimed.
Just off of Rothschild Boulevard,
on Ahad HaAm Street, stands the Shalom Tower, built in 1965.
For a long time it was the tallest skyscraper in the Middle East,
a title that has since been relinquished to other high-rise buildings
in the region. .
The Carmel Market, located off of hectic Allenby Street, is a colorful
mixture of food, clothes and home ware at cheap prices. Nearby,
Nachalat Binyamin pedestrian street hosts an arts and crafts bazaar
twice a week. Check it out on Tuesdays and Fridays, when it fills up
with artists and designers selling their original creations.
Once a bastion of underground culture, today, Sheinkin Street is a
place to drink coffee and “see and be seen.” Shops line the street
alongside numerous restaurants and cafés that offer ample chances to
bask in some urban cool.
Bialik Street is home to the first city hall, Bialik Museum and
Felicja Blumethal Music Center and makes for a stunning compound.
Tel Aviv Jaffa City Museum
The Tel Aviv Jaffa City Museum (Beit Ha'Ir), located in Tel Aviv's
historical city hall, serves as a museum dedicated to the history and
social fabric of Tel Aviv, displaying a cohesive documentation of
various facets of the city, its history and residents.
Tel Aviv-Jaffa City Museum, Bialik Sq (03-5253403).
Mon-Thu, 09:00-17:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-14:00
The Joseph Bau Museum
The unique shrine to Holocaust survivor Joseph Bau's creation
showcases the graphic designer and animator's works that span the
artistic curriculum: graphic design, vintage ads, animation films,
photography, writings and more. Bau and his wife are known as the
couple who marry in secret at the Plaszow Concentration Camp – a
moving scene famously retraced in the blockbuster film, Schindler's
List. Bau's story and spirited view of life are unveiled at this gem
of a spot downtown.
9 Berdichevsky St, 054-4212730. Call in advance to book your visit
The White City
“The World Heritage Committee has inscribed The White City of Tel Aviv
– The Modern Movement, on the World Heritage List. Inscription on this
list confirms the exceptional and universal value of a cultural or
natural site which requires protection for the benefit of all
humanity” – so reads UNESCO’s 2003 proclamation in acknowledgement of
the city’s wealth of International Style architecture. Indeed, the
city of Tel Aviv is an open air museum exhibiting an impressive
display of International Style buildings and Bauhaus architecture.
The “White City” – named in reference to the city’s wealth of
white-colored International Style buildings – stretches between
Allenby Street in the south, Begin Road and Ibn Gavirol Street in the
east, the Yarkon River in the north and the Mediterranean Sea in the
west. Tourists exploring the city may be baffled by the name, as many
of these buildings are veiled by a façade of soot and grime, old
plastic blinds, electric cables, cracks and peeling plaster.
Fortunately, the Tel Aviv Municipality has launched a program to
identify buildings intended for preservation and drafted severe
regulations ensuring that these renovations are carried out in keeping
with Bauhaus design.
A number of characteristics will help you identify Bauhaus and
International Style buildings. Bauhaus architects shunned “bourgeois”
details such as cornices, eaves and decorative details in favor of
functionality – creating buildings devoid of any ornamentation.
Instead, they used asymmetry, cubic dimensions and right angles
embellished with rounded features, such as curved corners and
balconies.
International Style buildings boast smooth façades and open floor
plans. Some local Bauhaus adaptations include narrow horizontal “strip
windows” to block out the sun, stilt-type columns to raise buildings
off the street and flat roofs.
City center
The area termed “city center” by locals runs roughly between King
George Street and Arlozorov Street. It is punctuated by Dizengoff
Center – Israel’s first shopping mall, located on the corner of King
George Street and Dizengoff Street. Only minutes away, to the north,
is Dizengoff Square. The bustling square hosts “Dizengoff Creates”, an
arts and crafts fair that sells woodwork, glasswork, ceramics,
jewelry, paintings, sculptures, metalwork and other trinkets (Mon
12:00-20:00, Fri 09:00-16:00) and on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays
the square opens up for the “Dizengoff Garage Sale” – a collector’s
bazaar that deals in antiques and second-hand goods. Among the
bric-a-brac you can definitely find some treasures
(Tue and Thu 14:00-22:00,Fri 08:00-17:00).
The city’s major squares are all located within the city center. Most
notably, Rabin Square, beside City Hall and the City Garden shopping
mall, has become a must-see spot on the tourist path, since the
assassination of Israel’s Prime Minister, Itzhak Rabin, in 1995.
A landmark site long before the turbulence caused by the political
assassination, Rabin Square is home to a Holocaust monument, created
by the Israeli artist, Igal Tumarkin, in 1975.
Ben Gurion House
The former home of Israel’s first Prime Minister now serves as a
museum that houses Ben Gurion’s 20,000-volume library, personal
objects and a display focused on his legacy. Explanatory materials and
guided tours in English are available with advance booking.
17 Ben Gurion Blvd, 03-5221010
Tel Aviv Museum of Art
The home of a robust collection of both Israeli and international art.
27 Shaul Hamelech Blvd,
03-6961297, www.tamuseum.com
Azrieli Towers
At the top floor of this mall/office building, awaits a breathtaking,
panoramic view of the entire city and its surroundings. The spot is
sometimes closed for private events, so call to check in advance.
HaShalom exit west,
Ayalon Highway, 03-6081179
Jaffa
Before Tel Aviv, there was Jaffa. Standing proud on a piece of land
jutting into the Mediterranean, Jaffa has been conquered, destroyed,
and rebuilt countless times. Against a backdrop of constant turmoil
and change, there’s been one constant: Jaffa is a city where, if not
always peacefully, Jews, Muslims, and Christians have lived as
neighbors.
The ancient city is a goldmine for tourists. With historic
attractions, museums, great restaurants, bars, a renovated ancient
city, flea market and million-dollar condos on the rise, Jaffa is
experiencing another renaissance and is coming into its own as a
distinctive part of Tel Aviv’s culture.
Jaffa Port
The Jaffa Port is rough and authentically Middle Eastern. After
becoming obsolete in 1965, with the opening of the port in Ashdod, the
Jaffa Port is now undergoing a grand renovation, preserving its unique
character while turning it into a site of tourism, leisure and sports,
offering priceless views of the sea.
The Clock Tower
Smack in the middle of the titular square, the Clock Tower is possibly
the most significant landmark in a city that has survived time untold
and bears ancient footprints. Built after the turn of the last
century, the Clock Tower’s completion is said to have marked the 30th
anniversary of the reign of the Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II, one of
100 clocks built throughout the empire.
House of Simon the Tanner
This ancient house has been a Christian pilgrimage site ever since
Saint Peter slept here. During his stay, Peter had a vision (Acts
10:9-4) which led him to convert the Roman centurion, Cornelius, in
Caesarea. Once used to guide ships into Jaffa’s port, today, the
rooftop lighthouse adds light and character to Jaffa’s night sky.
Saint Peter’s Church
Saint Peter’s Church is a dominating presence in the Old City’s
Kedumim Square. Built in the 1890s, by the Franciscans, the Catholic
church stands directly over the ruins of a Crusader citadel and
features a room where Napoleon is said to have slept.
51 Yeffet St, Kedumim Square, 03-6822669
The Flea Market
An authentic collection of retro furniture, vintage clothing and
bric-a-brac, the Flea Market is bustling all week long.
The Artists’ Quarter
Set up in 1961 as a residential area for artists, this quaint quarter,
with its 12 winding alleys, is a charming neighborhood dotted with
galleries and studios.
Neve Tzedek
Neve Tzedek is one of the trendiest neighborhoods in the city, with
many buildings renovated in the original architectural style of the
area, including, most recently, the old Jaffa train station (Manshia),
which is planned to be a huge art and leisure destination.
The beautiful mix of classic and modern has made the small enclave a major
draw for artists and the bourgeoisie, who live side by side with the
working class residents who’ve been here since day one. Despite a
strong dose of elitism, the atmosphere remains laid-back – perfect for
a leisurely stroll or window-shopping. Aside from the numerous
boutiques lining the main road, Shabazi Street, there are quite a few
cultural establishments and sites worth checking out.
Rokach House
The Rokach House served as a social and political gathering place for
the community. In 1983, Rokach’s granddaughter, an artist, restored
the building and opened its doors to the public. Today it holds a
display of the artist’s works and hosts musical and theatre
performances.
36 Chelouche St, 03-5168042, www.rokach-house.co.il
The Nachum Gutman Museum of Art
Housed in an antique building, the Nachum Gutman Museum of Art honors
the writer, illustrator and painter who depicted the fledgling town of
Tel Aviv at the beginning of the 20th century. The museum features
permanent displays of the late artist’s works as well as alternating
art and photography exhibits.
21 Rokach St, 03-5108554,
www.gutmanmuseum.co.il
Suzanne Dellal Center
for Dance and Theatre
Originally constructed in 1908, the home of the Suzanne Dellal Center
for Dance and Theatre was built as an educational compound. Located
here were the Hovevey Tzion girls school and the Alliance Francaise
boys school. After being unused since 1975, the buildings were
renovated and given to Israel’s leading dance institute, named on
behalf of the late, renowned dancer Suzanne Dellal.
5 Yechieli St, 03-5105656, www.suzannedellal.org.il
HaTachana
After falling into disuse and dilapidation for years, the historic Tel
Aviv Train Station, located just off Neve Tzedek, at the junction
where Tel Aviv dissolves into Jaffa, is now a recreational site packed
with cafés, bars and boutiques. Sprawling across some five acres and
including 22 buildings dating back to different historic periods, this
architectural gem is fraught with nostalgic charm. Its location just
facing the beach is yet another key for a story of success.
On the beach, between Tel Aviv and Jaffa, Herbert Samuel St, Tel Aviv,
www.hatachana.co.il (Hebrew only)
South
Extending southward from Neve Tzedek and Rothschild Boulevard, the
southern part of the city is small yet distinct in character. This
section of town has nothing touristy about it. In fact, it’s all about
hard work and industry. It is, however, an interesting area for
wandering about and getting to know an unseen side of the city.
The ramshackle Florentin neighborhood was considered a promising area
back in the 1990s, when real-estate investors followed the advice of
experts who hailed the neighborhood as the next hotspot. So far, these
expectations have not materialized and aside from some classy
residential buildings and several bars and restaurants catering to a
young, urban crowd, Florentin has generally retained its tattered look
and feel.
The low prices and edgy character have nevertheless attracted quite a
few bars, restaurants, designers, craftsmen and artisans, who maintain
thriving studios in the area. Check out the Levinsky Market, which is
exceptional for quality spices and authentic delicacies. This is an
excellent locale for a cheap yet filling lunch.
HaYarkon Park
A sprawling expanse of green amidst Tel Aviv’s vertical growth,
HaYarkon Park hugs the Yarkon River. The park is situated at the
northern end of the city and offers plenty of recreation options. Rent
a boat on the lake, rent a bicycle, or try one of many walking trails.
Kids will enjoy the petting zoo while sports buffs can work up a sweat
at the Sportech – a spacious facility offering a rock climbing wall,
basketball and football courts and areas for skateboarding and
rollerblading.
The park also features several nature-related attractions. HaMeimadion
is an exhilarating water park with a choice of slides and pools. The
wet activities are ideal for overheated young ones in the summer. The
Rock Country sprawls out over about 10 acres and holds dozens of types
of rocks brought from all parts of the country.
The Farm at “Rosh Tzipor” (Bird’s Head) offers a taste of
nature in the form of a petting zoo, butterfly dome and other
activities for children.
Among the rocks, hundreds of plant species were planted to form a
heterogeneous collage of the flora in Israel. For an impressive view
of cacti from all corners of the globe, head to the Cactus World. Lush
vegetation is on view at HaBustan (“The Orchard”) – a spacious garden
that combines formal, classic and Mediterranean gardening into one –
while Tropical World houses an orchid greenhouse as well as fish and
aquatic vegetation pools.
Tel Aviv Port
Tel Aviv’s old port has been given a new life as a mixed-use retail
and leisure complex.
One look at it today and it’s almost impossible to believe that only a
few years ago, the Tel Aviv Port was an abandoned, municipal wreck –
lost to the damage and disinterest of time. A massive
re-gentrification program turned it into a compelling city attraction
mixing retail, nightlife and culinary destinations.
The Tel Aviv Port was founded in 1936, receiving its first traffic in
the form of a Yugoslavian freighter, the Chatworthy. Two years later,
it welcomed its first immigrants. For the next three decades it
continued to serve as one of the nation’s major port facilities. By
1965, the Port loaded its last cargo, replaced in prominence by
Ashdod’s newer and more capable port.
For almost 30 years, the Port languished, a victim of general
disinterest and a lack of imaginative thinking. In 2001, it underwent
one of the most important urban renewal programs in the country. The
idea was to renovate and upgrade the Port, transforming it into a
leisure and commercial destination for all seasons.
Today, the Port hosts an antique market on Saturdays, a farmer’s
market on Tuesdays and Fridays, and is home to a plethora of
restaurants, cafés, nightclubs and bars, along with shops offering
everything from fashion to jewelry and fine design.
The beach
Tel Aviv’s beach stretches the entire length of the city and is the
backyard of most of the city’s hotels. On any given day of the summer,
the beach is teeming with tourists and locals.
Banana Beach
Situated next to the Dolphinarium, Banana Beach offers excellent views
in all directions – west to the sea, south to Jaffa and north to the
Tel Aviv hotel strip.
Jerusalem Beach
Come Friday, the late afternoon sees locals ushering in the weekend by
watching the sunset over Jerusalem Beach and participating in the
weekly drum circle – amateur musicians and random locals playing
percussion instruments and dancing to the beat.
Gordon Beach
With its central location, opposite the Sheraton Hotel, Gordon Beach
is one of Tel Aviv’s busiest. If your ideal beach includes crowded
bodies, music and a lounge chair to work on your tan, head to Gordon
on the weekend and be surrounded by Tel Aviv’s die-hard sun
worshippers and a real mix of characters – tourists, locals, roving
masseurs and everyone in between.
Hilton Beach
The Hilton Beach, also the city’s unofficial gay beach, is one of the
hottest and cleanest beaches of all. There is a surf club, restaurant,
volleyball area and at the northern end, an area for dogs.
Mezizim Beach
Mezizim offers decent food, a late-night lounge atmosphere and an
abundance of beach chairs. With a playground, decent toilets and
location minutes from the restaurant and bar-filled Tel Aviv Port,
Mezizim has it all.
Nordau Beach
Located beside the Hilton beach yet miles apart on the social
spectrum, Nordau is Tel Aviv’s religious beach, where men and women
swim on alternate days (Sun, Tue and Thu for women and Mon, Wed and
Fri for men). On Saturdays, the walled-off beach is open to all.
North
Built relatively recently, the northern part of Tel Aviv is largely
residential, but is also home to several important museums.
Additionally, the lush, green HaYarkon Park offers many outdoor
activities and is a perfect place for a day of fun.
Beit Hatfutsot, The Museum of the Jewish People
Beit Hatfutsot (The Diaspora House), the Museum of the Jewish People,
recounts the unique, ongoing story of the Jewish people throughout the
ages and around the world. The Museum is home to a remarkable
collection of exhibits as well as a selection of Jewish music,
documentaries and photographs. Audio-guides in English, French,
Spanish, Russian and Hebrew are also available.
Tel Aviv University Campus, Gate 2, Klausner St, Ramat Aviv, 03-7457800,
www.bh.org.il. Sun, Mon, Tue and Thu 10:00-16:00 Wed 10:00-18:00, Fri
09:00-13:00, Sat closed.
To book a private guide, contact the Visitors
Center at 03-7457808 or bhtours@post.tau.ac.il
From Tel Aviv Visitor’s Guide (Time Out Tel Aviv).
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